The Truth About Mascara

I can't walk out of the house without mascara on - Period.  But given that I'm a safe cosmetic junky, can I really say that mascara is okay to use?  As with most cosmetics, it's a complicated answer.  Mascara can contain, as with any cosmetic, most pretty harsh chemicals.  Some brands carry nasty stuff like parabens and retinyl acetate.  These chemicals can cause developmental and reproductive toxicity, ecotoxicology, endocrine disruption, allergies, immunotoxicity, biochemical changes at the cellular level, AND cancer.  Not good.

If all of those chemicals and effects sound like a foreign language to you, check out my post on the "Dirty Dozen" chemicals found in cosmetics for more information and explanation by clicking here!

But even with all of that, it doesn't mean that ALL mascara's are bad - like I said, I wear the stuff everyday.  It's important to do you research before buying a makeup product to be sure that you're buying something that not only works, but also doesn't put harmful chemicals on your body.

So what should you buy?

There's a number of great options out there, and I've found several at a low price-point for us "bargain shoppers."

Almay One Coat Nourishing Mascara, Lengthening: This formula is designed to lengthen lashes without clumps - it's a good option for those of us who like a more natural look.  Almay has included aloe and Vitamin B5 as well to help keep your lashes healthy.  This brand is also super cost effective and you can find this one at Target and WalMart below for less than $7 - not bad!

Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Lash Boosting Mascara: "Organic" in the name of a product always makes me happy, and this one has great packaging... plus it actually works too!  This one is advertised to enhance both lash length and thickness - so it doesn't give you as much of a natural look as the other two options in this post, but it's even better for lashes with less artificial ingredients.  It's right in the middle on cost, around $10 at most retailers.

enhances the appearance of lash length, thickness and volume for dramatic lashes instantly and long-term - See more at: http://www.physiciansformula.com/en-us/productdetail/eyes/mascara/07561.html#sthash.ojB9aBWP.dpuf

enhances the appearance of lash length, thickness and volume for dramatic lashes instantly and long-term - See more at: http://www.physiciansformula.com/en-us/productdetail/eyes/mascara/07561.html#sthash.ojB9aBWP.dpu

bareMinerals Flawless Definition Waterproof Mascara:  If "natural" is what you want out of a mascara, this one will give it to you - no clumps, loads of length, no smudging, and a wand that is good for both upper and lower lashes.  I actually LOVE this one, though I don't use it often because of the price.  Like most bareMinerals products, it's expensive - this one checks in at $18.

Safe Cosmetics Brand Review: philosophy

About the Brand

By now, you've probably heard of philosophy - they are a super trendy brand of "inspirational beauty" beauty products with super cute packaging and wide range of variety in offerings - we're talking everything from lip balm to shampoo to moisturizers to shower gels and everything in between.  On their website you'll read that their "promise is to deliver remarkable products that inspire you to live a better life by being better to yourself."

They also discuss the "science" of their products (which is what I'm mostly interested in). Their website states that "philosophy skin care offers revolutionary ingredients, breakthrough formulas and advanced technology. It is designed to not only deliver dramatic results but to enhance the integrity of your skin." 

That sounds awesome! Seems, to the casual observer, that this brand should be a healthy mix of products that should promote healthy skin and hair.  On a side note: From a "frugal" perspective, this is NOT a budget brand and many of their products are very, very pricy... But is it a "safe" brand that's worth the price?

Safe or Not?

First and foremost, it should be said that philosophy does NOT advertise themselves as an all-natural brand, so it wouldn't be right to not address that before moving on.  As a result, they have a combination of both "safe" and "not" products on the market - you just need to do your research to figure out what to avoid.  They are a brand that follows the newer trends in chemical formulas for quick results and "high quality" fragrances.

With that said, many of philosophy's products are NOT "safe" - The amount of fragrances alone make the vast majority of their products an issue from, if nothing else, an allergen perspective.  Since their brand is so diverse, let's take a look at few of their products:

The Good

Keep The Peace Protective Color Corrector: This product is advertised to camouflage redness, smooth the appearance of fine lines, pores and uneven texture and it leaves behind a smooth, satin finish.  It's also a relativity "safe" product, with only one ingredient of note - Phenocyethanol can cause toxicity issues, is an eye irritant, and a known allergen.  If you actually read the ingredients label on this one, it's all chemicals, but generally those considered safe for use... but this product also costs $32 here in the US, so I'd recommend shopping around for a more natural and less expensive color corrector.

Just Release Me Eye Makeup Remover: I really like this one - among the "affordable" members of philosophy's makeup line, this product is advertised as an "oil-free eye makeup remover that gently yet effectively breaks down and removes the toughest eye makeup, even waterproof makeup, without irritating eyes."  As with the previous product, there is really only one ingredient that causes alarm - Benzalkonium Chloride.  This is a preservative that can cause allergies and severe skin irritation.  On the positive side, the product also contains super ingredients like aloe, chamomile and cucumber extracts.

Kiss Me Exfoliating Lip Scrub & Facial:  Sadly, it doesn't look like this product is offered by philosophy any longer - I've actually used it in the past and loved it.  Phenoxyethanol was the only worry with this product - it is a preservative and fragrance agent that has proven evidence of skin and immune system toxicity and is an allergen.  Other than that, this was actually one of my favorite philosophy products - too bad it's no longer for sale!

The Bad

Eternal Grace Spray Fragrance:  SO much to say about this one - but if you'd rather skip ahead, simply put, I would never use this.  The ingredients in this range from those that could cause massive allergy issues for the user, to those that cause endocrine disruption, organ toxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, ecotoxicology, and more.  Some ingredients of note include Oxybenzone, Lilial, and Citral.  Take my advice and consider natural fragrances versus those made from chemical compounds.

Shampoo, Shower Gel & Bubble Bath, Mangos & Cream: This 3-in-1 product runs just shy of $100 for 32oz... Ouch!  On top of that, it contains DMDM hydantoin, which is an antimicrobial formaldehyde releaser preservative.  This ingredient is known to cause skin toxicity issues and there is also evidence that shows it can cause cancer.  CANCER - From your bubble bath.  Not good.

Kiss Me Color Lip Shine: Another relic of philosophy's past that is no longer available, this product was another member of the "cancer club," containing BHT - an ingredient that not only is a carcinogen, but also an allergen and known to cause developmental and reproductive toxicity issues.  This product also contains MULTIPLE endocrine disruptors like Oxybenzone and Octinoxate.  Thank goodness it's no longer on the market!

Final Thoughts

While it's not fair to hold philosophy to an "all natural" standard that they've never claimed, it is a bit discouraging to find so few "safe" products in their catalog.  I personally can't afford to buy a lot of their products to begun with, so I'd say your best bet would be to search for more natural and cost effective alternatives.

Guide to Natural Fabrics in Cloth Diapers

Like I've said time and time again, cloth diapering is NOT easy for the newbie cloth mom to wrap her head around (or the newbie cloth dad!).  The options are ridiculously varied and it does take a lot of trial and error to find what works for you and your baby.

One of the more confusing elements of cloth diapering are the fabric options - what's best?  What's cheapest?  Can best and cheapest be the same thing?  Are all of the options healthy for your baby's skin?

Because the options are so vast, I wanted to simply start with natural fibers - these are fabrics we're all familiar with to a certain extent, and all have a lot of great functionality when used in cloth diapering.  The most common natural fibers that you'll find available are cotton, bamboo, and hemp.  While others do exist, I like to keep things simple and these three are the staples of natural fibers in cloth diapering.

 

Cotton wins the "affordable" category - and probably will be the easiest to locate as well.  Cotton prefolds and flats are extremely common, come in organic and/or unbleached options, and are super cost effective.  Organic cotton is more expensive than bleached/processed cotton, but you can get still quite a lot of "bang for your buck" even in the organic area.

Cotton is also a very absorbent fabric once you've taken the time to properly prep the material (get the scoop on cloth diaper prep here), and is also very breathable.  "Breathable" is an important factor in cloth diapers because it means that the fabric will help to pull moisture away for baby's skin and lowers the occurrence of diaper rash.

While less readily available than cotton, bamboo is a fabric with a lot of additional benefits in cloth diapering.  Bamboo is a hypoallergenic fabric that is, in most cases, MUCH more absorbent than cotton.  This means that the parents of heavy wetters LOVE bamboo... In fact, I'll go ahead and give this fabric the win in "absorbency" for natural fibers.

This fabric is also antimicrobial and antibacterial.  This means that there is a lower chance of bad odors with bamboo, and that the fabric will help to naturally limit mildew.  Given it's high absorbency, this makes bamboo ideal for keeping moisture away for your baby and limiting diaper rash or skin infections.

Hemp is often considered to the be the champion of "durability" in cloth diapering.  This fabric can last a really long time - It is also easier to find than bamboo and many of the major cloth diaper companies offer hemp inserts and fitteds.

Breathable and absorbent, hemp is also often considered more effective for heavy wetters than cotton.  In addition to that, hemp is antimicrobial, so you'll get the benefit of limited odors with this fabric as well.

A key benefit to hemp is, however, the fact that hemp in nature is not grown in a manner that requires the use of pesticides.  This means that you don't need to worry about any nasty pesticides lingering in the fabric when you purchase (still prep this fabric, though!).


Want more "Cloth Diaper 101?"  Check out these articles from The Cozy Life:

• What Cloth Diaper is right for you?
• The Importance of Cloth Diaper "Prep"
• The Scoop on Baby Wipes
• DIY or Buy?  Cloth diaper detergent

What's In Your Baby Shampoo?

As you've probably figured out, two of my passions are safe cosmetics and being an "Eco-Mom" - today I want to combine those ideas!  Over the past few weeks I've talked about nail polish, hair care... even makeup remover - But what about the hygiene products that we use on our children?  There is, unfortunately, just as much of an opportunity for nasty chemicals to sneak their way into our toddler and infant products as they do our own hair and skin care.  One product in particular has always bothered me - Baby Shampoo.

Looking at the ingredient labels on shampoos - baby or otherwise - is generally a test on your language skills.  Chemical compounds that are virtually unpronounceable are in almost every single shampoo product out there.  So how can you figure out which shampoo is best for your baby?

Generally speaking, the baby shampoo market is "safer" than adult shampoos - a lot of the SUPER nasty stuff doesn't get included in products designed for infants... typically.  But even some of the most popular baby brands still include ingredients that are really unhealthy for a growing baby.

First, we'll look at Aveeno Baby Wash and Shampoo.  This formula is advertised as tear-free, gentle, and moisturizing.  In the US, 12fl oz. go for around $9.00, depending on the retailer.  Aveeno is also a really popular brand for baby lotions, creams, oils - you name it.


This is NOT, however, a product I would use with my baby.  Why?

Gastrointestinal and liver toxicity?  Immune and allergenic effects?  Respiratory toxicant?  Environmental toxins?  Yikes!  To be fair, these ingredients are in very limited quantities - but they're still there.  Given that this is such a popular brand and SO easy to find, are there any better alternatives?

Next we'll look at Babyganics Night Time Shampoo + Body Wash.  Just by looking at it, this one seems more hopeful - "ganics" as in  "ORganics!"  Perfect!  This formula has no parabens, sulfates, phthalates, mineral oil, petrolatum, gluten, artificial fragrances or dyes - wonderful!  This one costs around $12.00 for 18fl oz. here in the US, so it's even a bit more cost effective than the Aveeno option.

But... it's not all perfection.  Here's why:

Nervous system toxicity is NOT something I want in my baby's shampoo. On top of that, this product also contains fragrances (though non-artificial), just like Aveeno.  So while this brand is certainly an improvement, it's not quite where I'd like it to be.

By now, you're probably thinking that it's time to open up Pinterest and look into DIY baby shampoo, huh?  While that's a wonderful idea - and one I'll cover in another blog post - there is one store bought baby shampoo that combines convenience in availability with a lack of harmful ingredients.

Burt's Bees Baby Bee Shampoo & Wash, Fragrance Free - this is as close to "safe" as you're going to get at any major retailers.  For $9.00, you can get a 12fl oz. bottle and this brand has become so popular that even Target and WalMart stock almost their entire catalog in their stores.

This is a tear-free and plant-based formula made with aloe, soy proteins, and oat flour.  It does contain sodium benzoate, which has has been deemed safe for use but is a restricted ingredient in large quantities when used with cosmetics... So it's not perfect as a product, but it's pretty close.

The bottom line as a parent is simply to educate yourself - know what chemicals are in your baby's shampoos, detergents, wipes, etc.  This will help you in making the best purchasing decisions for your family.

Want more on safe products for baby?  Check this out!

Natural Makeup Remover: Coconut Oil

I talk a lot about what we put onto our skin, but sometimes the harder question to answer is how to take it off - many cleansers and makeup removers on the market are filled with harsh chemicals and strip our skin of essential oil, making our skin super dry or even oily depending on the products we use.  This causes premature aging, and can change the way our skin produces oils.  One claim you'll see on many makeup removers and cleansers is "Oil Free" - don't consider this to necessarily be a good thing.

Oils, in their natural form, can actually really help our skin to retain moisture and stay youthful.  Which is why I use an oil - just one, nothing else - to clean my face off and remove my makeup every single day.  In fact, this way actually eliminates the need to moisturize my skin with facial lotions as well, helping me to save a ton of money in the process.  Here's the trick:

How It Works

Coconut Oil is truly a miracle ingredient - you can cook with it, wash your hair with it, and clean your face with it - among other things.  In addition to being versatile, it's also really cheap and super easy to find. 

When using Coconut Oil as a makeup remover, you simply need to scoop up a small handful (generally about 1/8 cup for me does the trick) and apply it to your face.  I live in California so my oil typically is somewhere in between solid and liquid, so I warm it up by rubbing my hands together and turning it fully into the liquid form - if you live in a colder climate, you will definitely need to use your hands to turn the solid oil (which is white in color) into the liquid form.  Rub the oil into your skin with your fingertips, anywhere that you have applied makeup.  I even use it on my eyelids without any problems.

The purpose of using a cotton ball or cotton pad is to wipe away the majority of the coconut oil once you've applied it.  This is when the makeup actually comes off - you'll see the makeup residue ALL OVER your cotton pad, so be sure that you're thorough and get as much of the oil off as you can.  I tend to focus more on gently wiping off my eyes, as mascara and eye shadow can take a few extra swipes to fully come off.

The final step is using warm water (tap water works fine for me, but you can always buy distilled or filtered water if you'd prefer) to rinse your skin off.  There is always a small amount of coconut oil left on the skin following this rinse - But that's actually a good thing.  Pat your skin dry (don't rub) and then use your hands to massage the remaining coconut oil evenly into your skin.  This acts like a moisturizer and ensures that your face doesn't feel dry following the removal of your makeup.

Skincare Review: Simple Smoothing Facial Scrub

The "budget" brand Simple® is one I've seen on a few different YouTube "beauty guru" videos and I've been wanting try their stuff out for a while - On their website, it's explained that "all Simple^® products have no dyes, artificial perfumes or harsh irritants that can upset skin and contain skin-loving ingredients and added vitamins for natural, healthy-looking skin."  I was at the store about a week ago and decided to pick up their facial scrub to give it a shot.

What's in it?

We'll start with the big question - is this product "safe" and devoid of the "dirty dozen" chemicals commonly found in cosmetic and beauty products?  Unfortunately the answer is no.  It contains three different chemicals that I'm not too happy about:

1. Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, which is a formaldehyde releaser,  can cause cancer, and is an allergen.  
2. Methylparaben, an endocrine disruptor that is also a known allergen.
3. Tocopheryl Acetate, which is fine alone and is advertised simply as "Vitamin E."  However, this form of Tocopheryl carries the risk of contamination with Hydroquinone, which is actually banned from use in cosmetics - it's a super nasty compound that can cause organ toxicity, cancer, and allergies.

In the grand scheme of things, is this a product I'd avoid?  Considering what's in most skincare products, this one isn't all that bad.   Many others, like the Clean & Clear Morning Burst Facial Cleanser and the OXY Daily Defense Exfoliating Face Scrub for example, present many more toxins and health risks.  

However, because there are many, many DIY exfoliating cleanser recipes out there that use zero chemicals, I probably wouldn't repurchase this one.  I'm aiming to remove as many avoidable chemicals from my beauty routine as possible, and scrubs a great opportunity to eliminate toxins.

Does it work?

Equally as important as what's in it, does this product actually work?  I'll be honest - It really does work well on my skin.  The packaging instructs the user to only use the product once every few days, and when I used it, my skin was left feeling super soft.  I haven't noticed any increased redness or irritation, which I typically see with store-bought exfoliating products.  The exfoliating beads are also smaller than those found in most other products I've tried, which creates a nice scrub without the "scratchy" feeling.

Would I recommend it?  DIY Options?

Probably not.  Like I said, scrubs are a great opportunity to eliminate toxins.  If you're going to try your hand at DIY skincare, they would be a great start - go on Pinterest and you'll find a million different options, several of which I've tried with a lot of success... and they're typically super cheap and easy to make.  Homemade facial scrubs can even be customized to your skin type, as you can learn here.

 

Image (c) Brit+Co

Chemicals in Cosmetics - What's in your makeup?

We've covered the chemicals in nail polish, so now let's talk about one of my other favorite subjects - makeup!  Cosmetics are such a staple of the "female experience" nowadays, but have we actually stopped to think about what's actually in our bronzers, concealers, lipsticks, and brow gels?  

It's important to keep in mind that cosmetics are applied directly onto the largest organ of our bodies - our skin.  Because of that, it's really important that we change our mindset about cosmetics and start to focus on what they do to our bodies, not just how they cover dark circles and pimples.  

So what are we putting on our bodies?  Commonly known as the "Dirty Dozen," cosmetics often contain BHA & BHT, coal tar dyes, DEA, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), preservatives, parabens, fragrances, PEG compounds, petrolatum, siloxanes, sodium laureth sulfate & triclosan.

Why are the "Dirty Dozen" harmful?  

• Endocrine Disruptors: BHA & BHT, DBP, parabens, siloxanes, and triclosan are all potential endocrine disruptors.  These may create developmental, reproductive, neurological, and immune problems in humans - including reproductive issues, endometriosis, and cancer.
• Cancer Causing Agent: BHA & BHT, coal tar dyes, DEA, preservatives, parabens, PEG compounds, petrolatum, and sodium laureth sulfate all have the potential to (or may be contaminated with chemicals that) cause cancer.  Parabens get a lot of news because they, in particular, are potentially linked to breast cancer.
• Heavy Metals: Coal tar dyes are the culprit here - these dyes may contain heavy metals that are toxic to the brain.  Not good!
• Create Antibiotic Resistant Bacteria: Triclosan is an antibacterial in cosmetic that may aid bacteria in becoming those scary "antibiotic resistant" bacterias that land people in the hospital.  Yikes!
• Harmful to the Environment and Wildlife: BHA & BHT, DEA, DBP, and siloxanes have been linked to harming fish and other wildlife - don't hurt Nemo, folks!
• Allergens & Breathing Problems: Some fragrances have been linked to asthma and are known allergens - and these chemicals are sometimes found even in products labeled "unscented."

Why are these chemicals in cosmetics at all?

Each of the "Dirty Dozen" serve a purpose in a wide variety of cosmetics and beauty products - ranging from deodorant to, shampoo, to lipstick, and everything in between - Here's a breakdown of their functions:

• BHA & BHT: Preservative in both make-up products and moisturizers
• Coal Tar Dyes: Pigment and coloring agent
• DEA: Present in cream-based and foaming products - often shampoos and moisturizers
• Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP): Plasticizer in nail products
• Preservatives: Serve as preservatives... as you may have suspected
• Parabens: Serve as preservatives
• Fragrances: Scent agent in many beauty products
• PEG Compounds: Present in many cream-based cosmetics
• Petrolatum: In lip-balms as a moisture barrier and haircare products for shine
• Siloxanes: Moisturizer, softener, and smoother in many types of cosmetics
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate: Foaming agent in cleansers, bubble baths, and shampoos
• Triclosan: Antibacterial agent in toothpaste, cleansers, and antiperspirants

Let's compare a few lipsticks to demonstrate the presence of these chemicals.  Because we're looking at lipstick, let's focus on coal tar dyes which can be located by seeking color index numbers (CI numbers) within the 75000 and 77000 ranges - below is a look at ILIA Lipstick, a lip product that is advertised as an organic product, and Revlon Super Lustrous Lipcolor, a typical drugstore brand.

BOTH products contain coal tar dyes - including the organic lipstick.  This is why it is critical that you really look into the ingredients of your beauty products - an organic label doesn't mean that the product is free of toxins.

What products are free of the "Dirty Dozen?"

After considering the above, what can you do to find natural and toxin-free cosmetics?  Don't fear - safe cosmetics DO exist!  There are a number of brands that specialize in toxin-free makeup and beauty products, including Coastal Classic Creations and Zosimos Botanticals.